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Yuriy Kulchytskyi

Yuriy-Frants Kulchytskyi (1640–1694) was a Ukrainian Cossack, intelligence agent, and entrepreneur who founded the coffee tradition in Vienna and subsequently across all of Europe. He acquired his knowledge of coffee preparation in Crimea during Turkish captivity, visiting the coffeehouses of Bakhchisarai, Feodosiia, Gurzuf, and Alushta.

Overview

Kulchytskyi is one of the most remarkable figures in Ukrainian-European history, whose contribution to European culture remains little known in Greater Ukraine but is well respected in Galicia and Austria. He was born in the village of Kulchytsi in the Lviv region. A participant in clashes with the Turks in southern Ukraine, he fell into Turkish captivity, where he mastered the Turkish and Crimean Tatar languages. After being ransomed from captivity he served as a scout during the 1683 Siege of Vienna, where his knowledge of the enemy's languages and customs proved decisive. After the victory he received 300 sacks of captured coffee and opened the first Viennese coffeehouse, the "Blue Bottle" (Synya plyashka).

Biography

Cossack and captivity in Crimea

Yuriy Kulchytskyi took part in numerous skirmishes with the Turks on the territory of present-day Southern Ukraine (the then Wild Steppe). Together with his fellow Cossacks he adopted from the enemy the custom of brewing and drinking strong Eastern coffee — this helped them stay awake during night watches, since violating watch duty met with severe punishment for the Cossacks.

In one of the skirmishes against the superior forces of the Turkish cavalry, Kulchytskyi was taken prisoner by the Turks. For several years he lived in Bessarabia and Crimea as an "unescorted" hostage. During this time he mastered the Turkish and Crimean Tatar languages perfectly. By visiting the coffeehouses of Bakhchisarai, Feodosiia, Gurzuf, and Alushta, he learned the technology of coffee preparation.

Kulchytskyi was ransomed from captivity by Serbian merchants — thus they repaid him for his services as a translator.

Intelligence and the Battle of Vienna

After his release, Kulchytskyi joined the united European army under the command of the Polish King Jan III Sobieski. Together with the Cossack colonels Palii, Apostol, Bulyha, Voron, and Iskra, he accepted the proposal to take part in the campaign.

Thanks to his knowledge of the enemy's languages and customs, Kulchytskyi carried out a brilliant reconnaissance and sabotage raid behind the lines of the Turkish army. He could easily disguise himself as a Turkish officer or merchant. The information he obtained about the enemy's actual strength and plans of advance proved decisive for the victory of the united European army in the battle of 12 September 1683.

Coffee Venture

After retiring, Kulchytskyi received from the Austrians a reward of his own choosing — all the coffee beans captured from the enemy (about 300 sacks). Before him, Armenian and Jewish merchants had tried to open coffeehouses in Europe, but because of its bitter aftertaste the coffee did not gain popularity — the Vatican even declared it "devil's soot."

Kulchytskyi introduced into the preparation the "know-how" that satisfied even the Church: he began adding cream and sugar to the freshly brewed coffee. At first he himself, in Crimean Tatar attire, carried coffee on a silver tray through the streets of Vienna, and later he opened the first coffeehouse under the name "Blue Bottle" (Synya plyashka).

The novel beverage gained great popularity; similar establishments began to operate in the city, and Kulchytskyi headed the fellowship of coffee sellers. A few years later he opened a similar establishment in Lviv as well, initiating the Lviv coffee tradition.

Recognition

  • 1862 — one of the Vienna streets was named after Kulchytskyi — Kolschitzky-Gasse.
  • 1885 — a bronze sculpture of Kulchytskyi (a Cossack in Turkish dress with a tray of coffee) was installed on one of the corner buildings of that street.
  • Vienna — to this day the popular cafe "Grand Cafe Zwirina zum Kolschitzky" exists.
  • Lviv — a monument by sculptor Roman Kikta (a bronze sculpture on a granite pedestal). The monument contains a heraldic stele with the coat of arms of the Kulchytskyi family and symbolic elements: an allegory of weapons signifies chivalry; a sack of coffee beans turning into gold coins signifies enterprise; and a classic coffee pot and cup signify the spread of coffee culture in Europe. The Cossack earring in the ear ("kulchyk") plays on the surname of the figure.